Sewing Update

[moon_custafer]

I had Andrew try on the trousers last night, but it appears men’s patterns, too, are afflicted by Sewing Ease. See, I’m used to the vintage patterns, where if the envelope says a dress is for a 32” bust, the finished garment has a 32” bust (maybe a 32 ½”, so you gan get it on). The seam allowances are a good 5/8”, so if you need to make adjustments, that’s your wiggle room. If you’re between two sizes, you use the smaller one and let the seams out. Makes sense, right?

So, modern (post-1980s) sewing patterns only have a ¼” seam allowance, and 3-4” of “design ease” built in the pattern as a whole, i.e., the garment is a couple of sizes bigger than what it claims to be, and that’s where you’re supposed to make your adjustments. Except they don’t tell you this on the back of the envelope. I’d heard a lot of rants about this in sewing forums, and I should have risked making an L instead of an XL for Andrew. Now I have to figure out how to take 4” off the waistband.

Comments

[sushidog.livejournal.com]

It's annoying, isn't it? Some patterns do tell you the actual measurements, so you can figure out how much ease to take out, but I really wish they'd just make them the size they say on the envelope so you don't have to do complicated adjustments as you go.
Is the waistband in two pieces with a seam in the middle? I'd be inclined to shorten it at the centre rather than the ends if the ends are already finished.

[moon-custafer.livejournal.com]

I’m going to remove it, then try to take the trousers in at the side seams, the back darts and the front pleats (that way I’m taking it in about ¾” in each spot, which should be less noticeable). Then I’ll put the waistband back on, taking it in at the back seam.

[sushidog.livejournal.com]

Sounds like a good plan! I've never actually made trousers, other than pajama pants; do they have a fly fastening? That's something I want to try at some point, when I'm feeling brave, although having seen better sewists than me try it and fail on the Great British Sewing Bee has made me nervous!

[moon-custafer.livejournal.com]

Considering that it was my first attempt at a fly, I feel ok about it -- what the instructions didn't really explain clearly is that when you move the zipper over it's supposed to make a vertical wrinkle -- that's the welt. consequently mine only *just* covers the zipper. I'll know for next time, I guess.

[redeem147.livejournal.com]

Or feed him a lot of pie.